An Alaskan in Kiwiland: A Subtropical Fall

Here in Auckland it is finally starting to feel like fall as the leaves turn red, orange, and brown. The temperatures are still quite temperate generally in the 60s (~20C) and until today it had been very dry—for months. Some were calling it the worst drought in decades. I quite enjoyed the uncharacteristic normality of weather that we were experiencing though, riding my bike on dry roads into university. It provides for both good exercise and a way to get around the terrible Auckland traffic. So much for mundane stuff though, I know you’re keen on hearing about the exciting bits.

Last month, while working down in Christchurch at the Natural Hazards Research Centre, I got out on some fantastic tramps and paddling trips with my interim roommate Brian Thorne, who had graciously let me crash in his gear room for two weeks. The first weekend we went out with the University of Canterbury Canoe Club (hereby known as the goon train) and kayaked the Hurunui River, which there is a proposed hydro project on. If the dam ends up being built, it will change the face of the river forever, so I am glad I had the chance to paddle it while it was still “wild.” (Interesting etymology note: the German word for whitewater is Wildwasser or “wild water.”) The next weekend Brian and I went out tramping and packrafting, knocking out the 33km Cass Lagoon Track on Saturday, overnighting in a DOC hut, and then hiking up to the Otehake River Hot Pools on Sunday. The hot pools were fantastic, with a cool stream that could be diverted in to control the “plumbing” of the dugout and pebble coated pools and make them just the right temperature. They also had a resident weka who seemed very keen on sharing my lunch, though I deprived him of such pleasures knowing it is irresponsible to feed wildlife. After a good long soak, Brian and I inflated our packrafts and paddled down the Otehake (mostly grade II) to the confluence of the Otira River (see my adventure map link page 2). The scenery was breathtaking as we took out of the river just before sunset. This trip was really a paradox, both hard work and simple pleasures; exciting and relaxing.

Packrafting the Hurunui River

At the beginning of April my dad, Chris, arrived from Alaska to go hunting in the Southern Alps with me. My grandfather had planned the trip and intended on coming too, but could not make it for family reasons. Dad and I had a wonderful time none-the-less. We spent two days in Christchurch (while I finished up the last of my research) before departing for tahr country aka the Ben Ohau Range. Tahr are a large Himalayan mountain goat, now endangered in their home habitat, but prolific in New Zealand were they were introduced roughly a century ago. Tahr hunting is some of the most difficult in New Zealand as it involves climbing large, steep mountains to get to where the tahr reside; perfect for two Alaskans. In two consecutive days dad and I both succeeded in getting a tahr (the meat was nice and tough, but decently tasty). We then proceeded onto Cardrona where we hunted fallow deer, red stags, and chamois. As much as I hate to admit it, my dad with his vast hunting experience, is a better shot than I, and thus bagged the last NZ mountain species prize. In the meanwhile, while my dad was hauling the chamois out of the mountains, I was testing my bicycle legs with my friend Sam, on a new trail down the Clutha River. It was a fantastic day, very representative of my time here in New Zealand.

Dad with his Tahr above Lake Ohau

Once the week of hunting was complete, dad and I loaded up my station wagon for the long trip back north. We went by way of the West Coast making stops in Hokitika, Murchison, Wellington, and Whakatane before reaching Auckland. In Whakatane we went saltwater fishing with a couple of locals, which provided yet more meat for the freezer! To see more photos from our trip click here.

Dad with one slippery kingfish

Getting back to Auckland was both happy and sad. It was good to be back “home” again, but it ended probably my last big trip around NZ. I knew it was time to get cracking and back to work though. Recently, I’ve been putting ten hour days at uni trying to finish up my thesis. Things are looking good at the moment, but there is still a lot of writing to do. The more people I talk to about it, the more interest it generates and the more ideas I get at the same time. Community involvement is very important in such a project and I’m glad to know I am so well supported. On the weekends, I’m still trying to stay as active as possible however and recently went for a bikeride to the Waitakeres, a run into town, kayaking at “church,” and ANZAC day festivities. ANZAC day is a very special day on the New Zealand calendar, serving both as a kiwi memorial day and a celebration of national identity as distinct from merely a colonial identity. My host counselor Paul Monk invited me to march along at the 6AM dawn parade at the Auckland War Memorial Museum, which I was proud to do.