Friday, October 30, 2009
Tamping the beaches and the bush
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Finding a wagon and learning to raft guide
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Summit Luncheon & Tongariro River Rafting
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
South Island Extravaganza
Tuesday Soren, I, and a few other guys from the team headed out to Treble Cone, a mountain just west of Wanaka in the Aspiring Range (check my google map). It is the largest ski resort I have ever been to operating on just two lifts. With these two magic chairs (super high speed and quite large capacity) an incredible amount of country is open to the keen skier capable of tackling black diamond runs. The snow was nice and fluffy the day we went and skiing was a real joy minus the low visibility and high winds. Snacking on lunch at the base café I saw my first kea as well. Kea are mountain parrots, with beautiful coloration (particularly under their wings) and extremely inquisitive. They have been known to tear the rubber gaskets off cars and decimate leather hiking boots. Fortunately that day I was able to enjoy their simple magnificence without worrying about their destructive habits.
Tuesday night I met up with my friend Sam who had been a Rotary exchange student in Switzerland with me. Sam lives in Wanaka and is working on her private pilot’s license, which would be awesome if she gets as she has agreed to take me on a flight around Central Otago sometime. We played some billiards and discussed ideas of where to travel on the South Island after the games finished. I still had one event left though before everything was said and done—cross country skiing.
Even though the games had concluded on Wednesday, Soren and I decided to stick around Wanaka another day to ski at Cardrona and met up three other friends that evening. Two of them, Kari and Ben, followed us up over Haast Pass. The moment we broke the crest of the Alps, we knew we had reached the almost mythical West Coast. The entire ecosystem changed in what seemed like a flash. No longer in the dry grasslands of Central Otago, we emerged in a dense rainforest where even in the middle of winter, everything was bursting in vibrant shades of green. At the Copland Track trailhead, we made a quick lunch stop (how I love apples and peanut butter) before heading 17 km into the rainforest roughly to the base of Mount Cook. The tramp took us over numerous one-man bridges, by some amazing whitewater I would love to take my packraft down, and through head high water cut ravines. We tramped into the night, but our efforts were well rewarded—with a bath in the hot pools by full moonlight. It was magnificent as we basked in the hot water staring up at the snow capped mountains. I swear I even saw a shooting star…
Saturday we left out, blazed the 17 k’s in no time, and found a nice spot on the beach to camp out. After a satisfying dinner of pasta (the true staple of camping, coupled with oatmeal for breakfast), we took a stroll on the beach. As the stars glowed in the night sky, we saw flames erupt far off down the beach, so we went to investigate. As it turned out, two young farm hands were having a bonfire—with the help of gasoline—to celebrate the end of the rain. Apparently it had rained near continuously for the past few weeks (the West Coast gets 2-3 m of rain annually, hence the rainforest biome). We dragged a few logs over and warmed up by their fire before retiring for the night.
Clear blue skies greeted us on Sunday as we set off up to the base of Fox Glacier, intending to find our way onto the snow and ice. Our initial reconnaissance proved poor leading to unnecessary river crossings (anyone that has ever stepped foot in a glacial river, knows what that implicates). Finally, we discovered a route up the north side and around past the terminus of the glacier, which is also the most unstable part. After climbing onto the glacier, we attached our crampons, grabbed our ice axes (all of which I had been able to borrow from the tramping club) and headed out. Though I have been on glaciers in three or four countries in my life, I have never been hiked where guides chopped stairs into the ice to make the walking easier. We quickly expended the extent of this tourist track and headed on to more rugged parts of the glacier, which proved more challenging and rewarding. The most difficult bit (as always) was the decent, trying to find a suitable route back to the trail leading to the terminus and carpark beyond. We made it back carrying a small bit of glacier ice to enjoy with our refreshments. It was simply a grand day.
At Fox Glacier we split company. Kari headed back to work on the Banks Peninsula, while Ben headed south to Queenstown, and Soren and I drove north to Greymouth. The primary attraction of Greymouth, the largest city on the West Coast with just under 10,000 inhabitants, is Monteith’s Brewery. Begun in 1868, it is one of the oldest in New Zealand and still brews according to the original recipe (sounds a little like Bavaria doesn’t it). Monteith’s is a craft beer produced in small quantities, but one of the finest brews in kiwiland. Just recently they started producing Crushed Apple Cider, which we were able to sample and I can report is most excellent. After a filling lamb lunch, Soren and I drove up over Arthur’s Pass and into Methven, the staging ground for our final ski adventure on Mount Hutt.
Monday, August 24, 2009
Motuihe Tree Planting

Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Coromandel Tramping


In spite of the drizzly weather, we headed out for a few short tramps on Sunday making our way into the Coromandel Forest Park and walking out to Cathedral Cove, a wonderful sandstone arch cut by the wave and erosion. Nearby there was also a nice beach and a small natural waterfall, which made a perfect shower. I’ll have to come back again in the summer—with a towel in hand—to more fully appreciate the cove’s grandeur. I have heard of some spectacular sea kayaking in this area as well, which I would enjoy checking out.
What students will do for good fun… A 08:30 am low tide at Hot Water Beach near Hahei, along with some load noises, and the lights turning on at 06:30 motivated us all to get us early and head north from our batch (kiwi slang for a vacation house) in Tairua. Hot Water Beach is quite unique. Here 60 degree C water comes through fissures in the earth, emerging right on the beach. A hole, properly dug and protected by a small wall to protect it from incoming seawater, will act as a exceptional natural hot tub. Even though we arrived at Hot Water Beach at the perfect time, just before low tide, Poseidon was frowning. All the bad weather had kicked up quite some large surf as well and rogue waves would randomly come dissolve the walls I worked frantically to construct around our hot water spring. The work was futile and after an hour of struggling, I simply gave up and plopped down in my little puddle accepting that fact that every now and again a cold wave would come lapping up on me and spin me around. It was still great fun however—a geologically power experience I will not soon forget.

Tonight I invited two of my good friends, Marcel and Soren, over to my apartment for a nice Mexican dinner. Though I have been cooking quite a bit to eat healthy and save some money, I have not had Mexican food since arriving in Kiwiland. To amend this, I made tacos with all the staples: seasoned beef, refried beans, lettuce, tomato, salsa, sour cream, grated cheese—absolutely delicious. So good in fact, that we have concluded to make it a weekly event. It is very nice to be able to hang out with friends, share good food, and engage in fine conversation. Till next time—remember don’t forget the spice.
Monday, August 10, 2009
Waiheke Island Biking
In comparison Saturday proved far more mundane, reaching its peak level of excitement when I opened my mailbox to find a new installment of New Zealand postage stamps. As many of you know, I am an avid philatelist and became engrossed with the intricate details of a colorful series of Sir Edmond Hillary commemoratives and two round kiwi stamps with a very fine combination of monotone simplicity, symbolism, and beauty.
Sunday morning I arose early, packed my rucksack, and headed to the ferry wharf where Eugene was waiting with tickets to Waiheke Island. Waiheke Island, located to the east of Auckland in Hauaki Gulf, is the home to a sublime countryside cloaked in numerous vineyards and sheep fields. I asked Peter from “the bike shed,” where we rented our mountain bikes for the day, what he liked about Waiheke Island. After revealing I was from Alaska, Peter explained “Waiheke is a mix of Madison and Anchorage. It has the feel of small town USA and the grandeur of Alaska—all circa 1960.” After spending a day on the island, biking nearly forty miles of its long, winding, and steeply graded roads, after gazing over its brilliantly green, grass covered hillsides and glittering gold beaches; I can confidently say there is very little on Waiheke Island that reminds me of Alaska. It is beautiful none-the-less. On our travels, Eugene and I passed dozens of vineyards, countless sheep, and even climbed into a very large rock garden topping a knobby hill. During the circumnavigation of the island, I saw tropical birds, pheasants, and a giant, painted rock appearing to be a ravenous ogre. I made sure to avoid him while stopping at a wine store just before departing the island to pick up a bottle of the local specialty, which I plan on saving for a very special occasion.
Until then I wish you a great week.
Please check out the google.map “Erik’s NZ Adventures” where I have geo-tagged the locations of all my past kiwi trips and digitized my biking and trekking routes at the following site provided by clicking on the map to the top right or the text at the bottom of this website.To view more photos in my picassa web album click here.